Tank-The first thing to consider when starting out, is what size aquarium to purchase. A 10- or 29-gallon tank is a popular choice for novices because it is relatively inexpensive, available in kit form so you get all the essentials in one box, easy to run, and can hold a reasonable amount of fish. It is very important, especially if you are receiving or buying a used tank, to take it outside and fill it all the way up with water before hand, to check for leaks. A new tank should not leak and if it does it should be returned to the store as it should be under warranty.

Before continuing, decide on a permanent location for your tank because once you fill it with water it will be very, very heavy and nearly impossible to move. Make sure you place your tank near a wall plug to run the heater, lights and filter.

Filters-There are several different types of filters on the market and their purpose is to keep the water clean by filtering the waste material. What type of filter you decide to run depends on how you wish to service it.

Box filters-These types of filters are run with an air hose that pushes the water through the filter where it passes through charcoal and a fiber floss, depositing the waste matter on the floss. Every few weeks you will be required to replace the floss and every 4-8 weeks you will replace the charcoal. This requires you to lift the filter out of the tank, which will temporarily disrupt the fish. If you don’t wish to fuss with an internal filter, you can purchase a "hang-on" power filter that hangs outside the tank. This filter works with a pump that sucks the soiled water up a tube where it flows through the floss and charcoal and re-circulates back into the tank in a waterfall fashion. This filter has its advantages because you don’t have to disturb the fish to service it.

Undergravel filters- This filtering system consists of a plastic plate that is inserted along the bottom of the tank and then covered over with a heavy layer of gravel. It is to be used with an electric air pump that is attached to air hoses that push air down the tubes located at either side of the filter. This causes the waste matter to be pulled down into the gravel where it is broken down naturally and then siphoned out by you at regular intervals.

Whatever type of filter you choose, you will still be required to do a partial water change once every week or two. This is done by using a siphoning tube and sucking up about 1/3 of the soiled water at the bottom of the tank. Place the end of the siphoning tube a little ways into the gravel and you will lift out a good percentage of the waste material that the filter isn’t able to. Be sure and move the end of the tube to several different locations in the tank when cleaning up the gravel.

Heaters- When keeping tropical fish, (with the exception of "coldwater" fish, like goldfish) you will need to purchase a heater, unless your room temperature stays fairly constant all day every day year round. It really pays off to buy a good quality heater the first time out, as you will not want to be replacing a cheap heater several months later, possibly risking the life of your fish if it should quit working when you are not around to replace it. Heaters are submersible and come with an adjustable heat control. Place your heater near the intake of the filter so the heat will be circulated evenly through-out the tank. Most tropical fish like their water between 75 F and 78 F . Most factories set the control at 75 F so you will need to run your heater alone in the tank for several hours first and then check the temperature using an aquarium thermometer. Adjust a little at a time until the temperature is where you want it.

Lighting- Most fish tanks are sold with a hood and light as part of the package. You can choose to run an incandescent or fluorescent light. If you are running an incandescent light on a ten gallon or smaller tank, you may not need to have a heater as the light will give off a certain amount of heat. Always check your thermometer and regulate the heat before placing any fish in the tank.

Water-The right water conditions will mean the difference between life and death to your fish. Before you put the fish into the water you must make sure it is free from chlorine. To do this you can either let the water sit for several days or you can purchase some liquid drops that automatically remove the chlorine from the water.

Plants and decor- When using rocks, twigs, logs, other objects, and plants, you must ensure that they are aquarium safe. For best results use only items intended for aquarium use, that way you can be sure they don’t contain any harmful minerals that may kill your fish. You can set up rocks, structures, logs, and plastic plants in an unestablished tank, but leave the insertion of live plants until a few weeks after the fish have lived in the tank as the plants will need to use the fish waste material for food.

Set up- You will need to set up and run your aquarium for several days before you start to use your aquarium. To put it all together: First place your fish tank on a stable base or stand. Install the undergravel filter (if using one) and then place the pre-washed, aquarium safe gravel on the bottom. Make sure the undergravel filter is well covered by at least 2 inches of gravel (or if you are not using one, then a layer of about one inch of gravel is adequate). Next, you are ready to add your water. It is best to have the help of a friend who can place their hands in the tank, to provide a break on which to pour the water so you don’t uncover the filter. When the tank is full you can then install the filter, heater and thermometer. Run the heater and filter a few days before going on to the next step (starting the "cycle") so you can have the temperature set and the water clean.

OK ... we're ready for the next step, the "Nitrification Cycle" (also called the ammonia cycle). The nitrogen cycle, and other things, but no matter what it is called, it is something that all aquarists need to be completely familiar with. So, turn to the next article to learn about it, and how to start it up in your brand new tank.