This pudding is really best when made a year in advance and allowed to mellow. It was customary to make it early in Advent — the religious season before Christmas — and use it the following year. Everyone in the family was supposed to stir the pudding once for good luck. If you can't make it the year before, at least give it a few weeks to age.

Fruit Mixture (To be made 4 days ahead)

1 pound seedless raisins
1 pound sultana raisins
1/2 pound currants
1 cup thinly sliced citron
1 cup chopped candied peel
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon mace
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound finely chopped suet - powdery fine
1 1/4 cups cognac

Pudding

1 1/4 pounds (approximately) fresh bread crumbs
1 cup scalded milk
1 cup sherry or port
12 eggs, well beaten
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Cognac

Blend the fruits, citron, peel, spices and suet and place in a bowl or jar. Add 1/4 cup cognac, cover tightly and refrigerate for 4 days, adding 1/4 cup cognac each day.

Soak the bread crumbs in milk and sherry or port. Combine the well-beaten eggs and sugar. Blend with the fruit mixture. Add salt and mix thoroughly. Put the pudding in buttered bowls or tins, filling them about 2/3 full. Cover with foil and tie it firmly. Steam for 6-7 hours. Uncover and place in a 250°F. oven for 30 minutes. Add a dash of cognac to each pudding, cover with foil and keep in a cool place.

To use, steam again for 2-3 hours and unmold. Sprinkle with sugar; add heated cognac. Ignite and bring to the table. Serve with hard sauce or cognac sauce.

Brown Sugar Hard Sauce

1/3 cup (packed) golden brown sugar

4 tablespoons dark rum

1 tablespoon grated tangerine or orange peel

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1/2 cup powdered sugar

Stir brown sugar and 3 tablespoons rum in heavy small saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Mix in tangerine peel. Cool to room temperature.

Using electric mixer, beat butter in medium bowl until light. Add remaining 1 tablespoon rum, brown sugar mixture and powdered sugar and beat until well blended and smooth. (Can be prepared 1 week ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Makes about 1 3/4 cups.