The same type of Victorian bracket that decorates the corner of a doorway or suspends a shelf becomes the corner of these curtains. After painting the brackets to match the fabric, fasten them to the ceiling with screws. Then simply attach the fabric using hook-and-loop tape or a hot glue gun.

	Have the best-dressed bed.

• Measuring tape
• Curtain fabric and matching thread
• Sewing machine
• 4 Victorian brackets
• Screws or hollow-wall anchors
• Drill
• Hook-and-loop tapel or hot-glue gun
• Staple gun
• Primer
• Paint
• Paintbrushes
• Plumb bob
• Pencil

	Photo 1

1. Cut the fabric panels. First measure the total outside length of each bracket. Use this measurement plus 1 inch for seam allowance as the width. For the length, measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling. Add 1 inch so that the panels will puddle on the floor and 1 inch for hem. Cut four pieces from the first fabric to this size. Then cut four more panels from a contrasting fabric.

2. Sew the panels together according to the General Instructions on the last page of this story.

3. Determine where to attach corner brackets to the ceiling. There are two ways to do this: You can take measurements on the ceiling or drop a plumb bob to a mark on the floor.

4. Prime and paint brackets before installation. Mount brackets on ceiling, positioning the outside edges 2 inches wider and longer than your bed. You could do this by measurement, but using a plumb bob is faster and more accurate. Place coins on the floor as a target for your plumb bob, and mark the ceiling with a pencil. If you don't have a plumb bob, tie a small weight to the end of a string.

5. To fasten the curtains to the brackets, staple the hook side of the hook-and-loop tape to the outer edges of the brackets and sew the loop side to the top of the curtains. Press the curtains to the brackets. If the curtains will not need to be laundered, you can hot-glue them to the brackets instead.

6. Fasten brackets to the ceiling with screws or hollow-wall anchors (see Photo 1). You can camouflage the fasteners by touching up the screw heads with paint. Or, conceal them completely by countersinking the heads and patching the holes with wood plugs or putty.

Look closely and you'll see two slightly different but coordinating patterns in these bed panels -- a regular stripe on the inside and a variegated one outside.

	This headboard's not just for swinging singles.

• Fabric
• Measuring tape
• Swing rod (these have two side arms that pivot and a stationary back rod).

	Tie panels to rods.

1. Mount swing rods and back rod. One way to assure a pleasing height is to align the rod with the top of a window or a door.

2. Measure and cut curtains. For the side panels, measure the length of the swing rod and the distance from the rod to the floor, adding several inches to each measurement to allow for seams, gathers, and a hem. Cut two pieces from each fabric to this measurement. For back panels, measure half the wall's rod length by the distance from the rod to the floor, again allowing for seams, gathers, and a hem. Cut two pieces from each fabric.

3. Cut 12 ties, each measuring 2x16 inches. Fold the ties in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew across one short end and down the long side. Turn the ties and press. Pin three ties to the top right side of each inner panel, raw edges together. The ties should be evenly spaced, with the outer ties 1/2 inch from outer edges of the panel.

4. Sew panels together as described in the General Instructions on the last page of this story.

5. Tie a panel to each swing rod and two to the wall rod.

Molded into Shape, by Better Homes and Gardens

Although this theatrical-style canopy looks complicated, it's really quite simple. To make it, box in a small section of ceiling with 1x6 lumber, then hand-mix fabrics inside the compartment using tension rods. By combining three complementary prints -- here a check, a toile, and a floral pattern -- you can create an even greater sense of depth and dimension. Alternating light and dark backgrounds will keep the fabric trio visually balanced. What You Need: Tension rods eliminate the need for hanging hardware. 1x6 lumber (see Step 1 to determine amount needed) Glue 2-inch finishing nails Hammer Wood putty Mounting blocks, 1/4x1/4x4-inch Flathead wood screws, #6x1-1/4-inch Sandpaper Primer Paint as desired Paintbrushes 4 tension rods Three complementary print fabrics (see Step 5 for size guidelines) Screws or hollow-wall anchors Drill Quarter-round molding (optional; see Step 4) Instructions: Detail of canopy in place. 1. Build the cornice from 1x6 lumber. The box measures 18 inches deep by the width of the bed plus two inches. So build a box 18x56 inches for a standard double bed as shown. Assemble with glue and 2-inch finishing nails driven at an angle for strength. Countersink the nails, and fill the holes with wood putty. 2. Add mounting blocks. Cut 1/4x1/4x4-inch mounting blocks, and drill them for mounting screws or hollow-wall anchors. Then use glue and flathead wood screws to attach the blocks along the top inside edge of the cornice. 3. Finish the cornice. Sand the assembly, then prime and paint. 4. Mount cornice. Recruit a helper or two to hold the cornice against the ceiling while you drive in the mounting screws or hollow-wall anchors. If your ceiling is not flat, there may be gaps at the top edge of the cornice. If so, cut some quarter-round molding to fit around the top of the cornice, miter the ends of the quarter-round, and nail it to the cornice. Place the tension rods in the box, one on each side and slightly offset so they fit snugly. 5. Make curtains. Cut one toile panel and one floral panel for each side and one of each for the back. Use the following measure: Multiply 2 or 3 times the length of the corresponding tension rod by the distance from the top of the rods to the floor plus 1/2 inch. Sew the back double-faced panel and casing according to the General Instructions on the last page of this story. 6. Hang the curtains, on the tension rods, at slightly different heights.