| Minor Medical Tips and Information by Crazy Lady
Abscesses
Abscesses are wounds that have become infected and have filled up with pus. They can be caused by a number of things; anything from a scratch, to a bite, or even cuts on the inside of the mouth from eating hard food. To prevent any cuts you find from developing into abscesses, the wound must be thoroughly cleaned and kept clean. If an abscess does occur, then this is best left to a vet for treatment as the abscess will need draining and the animal will need a course of antibiotics to fight off the infection.
Insect Bites or Stings
Clip a little fur away from around the bite or sting then wash thoroughly with a saline solution or a good antiseptic lotion. If you can see a sting present in the wound, remove it carefully with a pair of tweezers and clean with a cotton bud which has been dipped in surgical spirit. Dry the area, then spray with an antihistamine spray or cover with a cold compress (a cold compress can be made by soaking a pad in some sodium bicarbonate and water, squeezing out the excess fluid, then placing on the area). This will help reduce itching and any swelling. If the ferret has been stung in the mouth or throat, please take it to a vet immediately as such stings can cause swelling of the airways and can prove fatal if not treated immediately.
Shock
Ferrets, like humans can suffer from shock. Shock in ferrets is a rapid fall in blood pressure.It can be caused by a number of things - an accident, an injury, in fact anything that causes trauma. Signs of shock can be one or more of the following: cool skin, pale lips and gums (due to poor blood circulation) staring eyes, and a faint or fast pulse to help raise the blood circulation. The ferret must be kept warm. You can do this by gently wrapping in warmed blankets (I also use bubble wrap for extra warmth) at the same time gently massage the ferret to help return the blood circulation to normal. Try and keep the ferret as warm and quiet as possible and then contact your vet.
Ticks
Ticks are a form of parasite that can easily be picked up from outside. The tick buries its head into the ferret's skin and begins feeding on its blood. If allowed to multiply without treatment, it can cause anemia in the ferret. Never attempt to pull a tick out as the head can remain and cause abscesses and infection to form under the skin. Tick sprays are available from your vet (such as frontline) but, in an emergency, you can paint on surgical spirit using a fine paint brush or cotton bud. Within 24 hours the tick should have died and dropped off. If it has not, simply keep repeating the process. Vaseline can also be used to cover the tick if you have no surgical spirit, apply a thick coat and leave (repeat when necessary as your ferret may lick it off if he can reach it).
Ringworm
Ferrets can catch ring worm (from infected cats). Even though it is called ring worm it isn't a worm, it's a fungal infection. Signs of ring worm are hair loss and bald scaly patches of skin in a round shape (hence the name ring). Treatment of ringworm is best carried out by a vet as this ailment is transmittable to humans and it needs immediate treatment.
Heatstroke
Ferrets can suffer from heatstroke in hot weather and must be kept cool. A ferret cannot sweat like other animals and therefore has difficulty cooling itself down. A ferret showing signs of heatstroke may be agitated and pant heavily (even though this panting isn't cooling down its body). At the first signs of distress you must take immediate action or the ferret will collapse, pass into a coma and die. If a ferret shows signs of distress due to heat, remove from its cage - wrap in a wet, cool towel and gently pour water over its head (the head must be kept wet and cool or the brain will literally cook). Move the cage to a cool, well ventilated room and keep spraying cool water on the head and back. Some preventative measures to follow in warm weather are the use of wet towels hung on the cage or fill soda bottles with water, freeze and encase in a sock and place in cage and regularly spray your ferret with a plant mister filled with cold water to keep the head cool. Remember prevention is less traumatic than the cure! Cuts and Bruises
Ferrets often get cuts and bruises. I will try and explain how best to give treatment for these things. Cuts fall into three categories: there are straight edged cuts (where it looks as if the cut has been made by a knife and the edges are straight), ragged edged cuts which are more like tears of the skin, and puncture wounds which look like they have been stabbed with something. I will write about them one at a time as treatment in each case is different - please remember this is only advice on cleaning the wounds prior to consulting with your vet. Straight edged cuts
Straight edged cuts are the most horrific for ferret owners ... with a straight edged cut, the bleeding looks horrific. It looks like the ferret is losing gallons of blood when in fact it is probably no more than a teaspoon full. This bleeding does, in fact, help you in your task as the rapid blood flow helps flush out any dirt or foreign particles in the wound. Flush out the wound with a saline solution or good antiseptic (remember the added fluid makes it look as if there is more blood loss!). After cleaning, try and stem the blood flow by applying direct pressure- -dress with a pad and a small bandage (do not use a tourniquet to stem blood flow). You can also elevate the injured part to help slow down blood loss. If the wound appears long or deep, consult with your vet as stitches may be required and a course of antibiotics.
Ragged edged cuts Ragged edged cuts appear like tears in the skin and easily happen. A ferret can catch itself on a nail or any sharp article. These are sometimes hard to spot as they don't bleed as much as a straight edged cut and in some cases owners only spot them when they see a trail of blood spots. The problem with ragged edged cuts is the risk of infection as dirt can be pushed under the tear in the skin and become trapped. Because there is not a lot of bleeding, the blood can't push out this dirt so the wound must be flushed with a saline solution (2 teaspoons of salt to 1/2 litre of warm water). I have found the easiest way to flush a wound is to use a syringe. After flushing, dry the wound and apply a suitable dressing if the wound is large - if only a small wound, leave uncovered and sprinkle with a wound powder (often obtainable from your vet). Contact your vet with regards to the injury as a course of antibiotics may be required.
Puncture wounds
Puncture wounds are very hard to spot and a lot go unnoticed because of their small size. They can be caused by many things: nails, sharp pieces of wire, even another ferret's teeth! They may appear small on the surface but can be deep underneath. If you find anything embedded in the wound, never attempt to remove it as this can cause more harm than good. It can result in huge amounts of blood being lost as in some cases the object acts like a stopper. You can also tear the ferret internally as you can't see how deeply it penetrates. If there is something in the wound, cover with a light dressing and go to your vet as soon as possible. If the wound appears to be empty of any debris, then clean with saline or antiseptic. I would still advise contacting your vet as antibiotics should be prescribed as a precaution against infection.
Bruising
When humans suffer bruising we brush it off as a sore that will heal. In ferrets, bruising must be monitored carefully. Bruising can be the indication of internal bleeding and any ferret showing signs of bruising should be watched carefully. If the ferret appears stressed and in a shock-like state, then you should take it to a vet without delay!
Please note these are only tips on how to treat a cut prior to taking your ferret to a vet as in most cases of cuts, antibiotics are prescribed to prevent any bacteria causing infection.
Worms
Many owners don't realize that ferrets can suffer from worms other than heart
worms. Ferrets can have internal parasites though they are not really much of a problem. The first signs of worms are a raging appetite. The ferret will eat and eat but it starts to lose weight even though it seems to forever have its head in the food bowl. Sometimes segments of the worms can be found in the poop long before the weight loss begins. Your vet can quickly identify if worms are present. The worms are easily treated with a preparation from your vet. Please do not try to clear up the problem with powders or preparations for sale at pet stores over the counter for dogs and cats. Your vet can advise you on what medication to use, the dosage, and how often. Usually one or two doses is all it takes to clear the problem.
Mites
When the word mites is brought to a ferret owners attention, everyone automatically thinks ear mites but there are a number of mites that can be found on ferrets.
Mange mite (scarcoptes scabiei) This nasty mite can cause two types of mange in ferrets, both very unpleasant. It is easily picked up either by being in contact with an animal who is carrying the mite or by walking over ground that an infected animal has crossed as the mites lay in wait for the next passing warm blooded animal to walk their way! One of the types of mange (sarcoptic) causes severe hair loss and intense itching. The poor ferret scratches at its skin as if it is covered in fleas even though none can be found. The skin becomes very red and sore. As the mange becomes worse, the hair falls out and the sores become really inflamed. A parasiticidal wash must be applied to the affected area or your vet can give injections of ivemectine.When the mange mite is present, all the cages must be washed with a solution of bleach and water (or recommended disinfectant from your vet) and all bedding disposed of. This form of mite can be passed on to humans and is called scabies, so please take precautions when handling any ferret you may think has the mite! The other problem this mite causes is foot rot. The ferret develops scabby, rusted feet and in some bad cases, the toe nails drop off. Treatment is as above.
Ear mites
Ear mites are common in ferrets and easily passed on. They are also easily treated. If your ferret tends to spend a lot of time scratching at its ears ( I don't mean the odd scratch! lol) then it is wise to check out the inside of the ear. If there is a build up of dirty wax that seems to be dotted with black specks, then that is a good indication your ferret has ear mites ( the black specks are dried blood--the mites favorite food) Ear mites are very hard to spot and only your vet can show you what they look like under a microscope(not a nice sight!) They can be treated with drops or with ivemectin injections available from your vet. If the mites were to be left untreated, the ferret will scratch until its ears bleed and can cause damage to the ear tissue. The mites move down into the inner ear and cause an infection which can result in your ferret losing its sense of balance. Some ferrets are unable to hold their head straight and tend to hang it on one side, or others simply cannot walk any distance without falling over. If ear mites are diagnosed by your vet, it is wise to treat any other ferrets in your household that have been near the infected ferret as some take quite sometime to show the symptoms of mites even though they have been infected. Please note-- if your ferret is suffering from either mange or ear mites and is pregnant, ivermectin is not recommended as it can cause deformities in the developing fetuses. Speak to your vet about an alternative. Blackheads (cause of Rat Tail) Black heads on the tail are normal when ferrets are shedding their coat or when hormone levels are running high (usually males get it worse than females). The tail hair begins thinning under the tail then gradually moves round. Tiny black spots appear (these are in fact harmless, they're nothing more than an over production of oil which darkens and hardens on contact with the air blocking the pore). You can use any mild soap to help soften them. Baby shampoo and warm water works. Soap well then rinse. The warm water helps dissolve the blackhead. Blackheads are normally more noticeable in albinos, silvers and sandy, for obvious reasons, but sables get them, too. In males with real high hormone surges, they can develop these so called blackheads under the front legs and in the inner thighs (they appear as brown balls of wax on the hair shafts). A quick bath in warm water and baby shampoo cures the problem. Remember the more you wash or bathe a ferret the more oil they will produce, so keep washing to a minimum. I know it looks unsightly but it will right itself given time. Normally, if mine have a bad case of rat tail, the tail is washed once to loosen really hard oil, then I leave them to their own devices. Yes, it seems to take forever for the new hair growth but it does make its entrance eventually.
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