These are all used to describe mohair as it comes from the goat, unwashed. The amount of dirt, smell, lanolin, hay, etcetera varies from goat to goat. Barnyard raised goats, commonly raised on hay bedding will have more junk in their fiber. Goats fed by children (such as mine) often end up with bits of grain stuck in the fiber from pushing in under the feed bucket while the feed is being put out.
Goats that are raised on dirt will have very little hay. But often have loads of dirt in the fiber. The younger goats and shorter clips will hold less dirt.
Goats range raised will often have burs and grasses stuck in the hair. There is less in a short clip as the hair gets longer it tends to reach out and grab as the animal walks by brush and will end up with more vegetable matter stuck in the fiber
Washed Mohair - scoured mohair
Mohair that has had the dirt and lanolin washed out.
Roving mohair - combed top
These ar two difrerent preperations
roving is mohair fibers washed and pased over drums so the shortest fibers are removed and then pulled through more drums to stretch it into a forrm ready for the spinning machienes it is used to make woolen yarn
combed top goes through extra steps to get much more of the shorter fibers removed , it is silkier and apears more like hair it is used to make worsted yarns that are shinyer and wear better this is due to the abssence of shorter fibers that can pull free and pill.
These are both used to make doll hair also , but the combed top is the preperation most people think of when they are talking about english mohair.
Next page
mohair grades
June tips More fiber facts More on texture
Mohair locks or English mohair
Many people do not know the difference between the types, and grades of mohair. Type is used here to describe the processing method used to get the product ready for sale. Grades in Mohair are used to describe the different textures and qualities in a given fleece
English mohair is a misnomer. What we call English mohair is mohair roving, that has had the shorter fibers combed out, and is processed into a rope shape. In the spinning and manufacturing trades, this is called combed top. One advantage of combed top is it comes in 1 pound to 10 lb spools of continuous length.
The main disadvantage is a wig made of combed top can loose most of its fiber if it needs to be restyled. I do not have the patience to comb a wig with a pin as I have seen advised in some doll magazines. I like a wig I can comb and restyle, as my hairstyles often are not perfect the first time.
Wefted locks of mohair, or mohair weft, Is made by sewing the top of each mohair curl in a long Strip. Usually in one yard lengths. The top edge is then turned down and sewn again one to three times. This produces a weft that can be combed and is how hair is done for human wigs.
Mohair grades
The texture of the mohair you choose is as important as the color. The wrong texture, whether too coarse, or too fine for the size of the doll will look out of scale.
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These are the mohair grades used by the US
All are grade A – main lines stain free - and further divided by fiber type
Type Description average diameter in microns
SFK – Super fine Kid below 25.5 <o:p></o:p>
FK -- Fine Kid 26.0-27.9 <o:p></o:p>
AK -- Average kid 28.0-29.9 <o:p></o:p>
FYG --Fine young goat 30.0-31.9 (Also called yearling by breeders)<o:p></o:p>
AYG – Average young goat 32.0- 33.9<o:p></o:p>
FA --Fine adult 34.0 – 35.9<o:p></o:p>
AA -- Average adult 36.0-37.9<o:p></o:p>
La -- Low adult > 38.0
Micron counts will not help if you are buying for the first time. So the most use the list will be is to give you a starting point to understand what you are purchasing
*Note - The first three are very fine. They will not hold a curl well and will dye lighter. The reflective cuticle on the very fine mohair is less shiny. The finest mohair is best used on tiny dolls, fairies, and where a very wispy look is wanted
FYG or yearling mohair is the first haircut after the goats first spring, it can also be very fine.
Average young goat and Fine adult are what I use the most more shine, and easier to comb.<o:p></o:p>
As the mohair becomes less, fine it is less flyaway. (But still I keep a spray bottle of week fabric softener around to fight the static!)<o:p></o:p>
Average adult and low adult are a bit coarser and are the majority of the mohair produced and are best for dolls that need size 12 and larger wigs. The low adult is about the same as a human baby’s hair for texture.<o:p></o:p>
June tips
Using cushing acid dyes- this was on medium brown which gives a great Auburn .The basic directions are the same for all colors
Here are the directions I have for the dye . Allowing it to cool in the dye bath is very important as some how it comes out more even. Also there must be plenty of room for the dye to move around the fiber And the fiber must be free of lanolin for the dye to come out even.
I use 1/8 tsp per oz for a medium auburn ( the center color on the auction) ( YES I know it says brown but it comes out auburn on mohair) Use more for a darker auburn less for lighter the lighter shades are more golden red toned ( like a blondish auburn) and more will give a deeper richer color. be sure the mohair is very clean and for the most even colors you should leave the fiber to cool in the liquid. These dyes are easy and so much cheaper to play with than hair colors. I rinse with clear water after dying , then a bit of a hair conditioner and lightly rinse ,and it comes out so soft and shiny.
Do not leave the dyed fiber soaking in hot water too long especialy with fabric softener or hair conditioner . I found out this can open the fiber scales and leach out some of the color.
Sue
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